In the past, puppy owners were advised to wait until completion of vaccinations before exposing their puppies to activities outside the home due to concern of infection. Early in life, puppies are protected by maternal antibodies ingested in breast milk. In the first hours of life breast milk is rich in antibodies and the puppy’s gut lining is ‘leaky’ allowing these large molecules to cross into the blood stream. There is a very short period (hours) during which maternal antibodies can successfully transfer to the puppy. These passively transferred antibodies from the mother protect for a variable period of time (several months) depending on the antibody levels in the mother. Maternal derived antibodies block the development of immunity in the puppy until they dissipate, usually somewhere between 6 and 10 weeks, but extending in some cases to 22 weeks. Without special testing, we do not know when maternal antibodies are likely to be gone.
Traditionally, the response to this has been to initiate puppy immunizations at around 8 weeks and give repeated doses through 12 weeks. Until completion of the vaccination schedule, it is assumed that puppies may be vulnerable to infection.
Seems common sense to protect puppies by keeping them at home during this vulnerable period – right?
Here is the problem: The first 12 weeks of a puppy’s life is a critical development period, during which small exposures help him learn ‘who belongs in his community’ (people, dogs, other animals) and ‘what belongs in his world’ (sounds, inanimate objects, movements etc.). The brain is primed to accept novelty as safe and good (assuming experiences happen in a safe and positive manner). Starting around 8 weeks and continuing for several months thereafter, the brain undergoes a gradual transition to perceiving novelty as potentially unsafe. This is a time when wild canines would be emerging from the den and moving further away from the dam – exposing themselves to potential dangers and predators. This switch in the perception of novelty is a protective mechanism.
If we are cocooning our puppies until after completion of vaccinations, we are left trying to socialize them at a time when their brain is screaming at them that novelty is BAD and SCARY! Novel exposures at this time can create fear and reactivity that lasts a lifetime.
Evidence shows that failure to socialize adequately during the critical socialization period is far riskier to a puppy’s long-term survival than the risk of infectious disease. Far more dogs are euthanized because of socialization failures than die from infectious diseases during puppyhood.
The American Veterinary Society of Animal Behaviour has clearly stated that delaying socialization until completion of vaccines is an outdated and harmful approach that has no place in current dog training. Unfortunately, not all veterinarians, breeders and trainers follow the recommendations of the AVSAB – many still advise keeping a puppy at home until completion of vaccines. This deprives them of the opportunity to learn at a time when it is easy for them to accept novelty as good and safe.
How can we mitigate the risk of infectious disease and still derive the benefit of early socialization?
For Breeders:
· Ensure newborn puppies get colostrum. This means getting newborns feeding as early as possible after birth, including post C Section birth. 
· Puppies that do not get colostrum may benefit from plasma and earlier initiation of vaccines.
For Puppy Owners:
· Carefully select puppy classes with good sanitation protocols and small class sizes.
· Arrange observation opportunities – we learned during COVID that puppies can learn a great deal from observation.
· Use a puppy stroller to facilitate visiting locations where you do not want your puppy on the ground.
· Avoid letting your puppy walk in areas where dog feces are likely to be found.
· Arrange play dates with age matched puppies in a home environment.
What if I do not get my puppy until 12 weeks? Many good breeders do not let puppies go until 12 weeks. Puppies learn a lot from remaining with mom and littermates through 12 weeks. This also avoids placing puppies during the fear period that typically hits between 8 and 10 weeks where we sometimes need to back off a bit from exposing the puppy to new experiences. If you obtain your puppy from a breeder who follows good puppy socialization and habituation programs like Puppy Culture and others, you are already ahead of the game. Talk to your breeder about what they have done in terms of socialization and habituation activities and make a plan to continue socializing your puppy – gently exposing them to people, places, dogs, other animals, sounds, sights etc. If you get your puppy from a breeder who is not focused on socialization and habituation, you will have to play catch up.
What if I missed the window and my puppy is over 16 weeks? All is not lost. Socialization always continues after 16 weeks, but the gains are slower. Set up experiences where your dog can engage safely – or where he can watch from a distance until he is ready to engage. Be patient and pay attention to his body language so that you can avoid pushing him when he is not ready.
More is not necessarily better. The key with both socialization and habituation is that they must happen in a safe and positive manner. One bad experience can undo many positive ones. The old adage of “100 new experiences in 100 days” points out the need for extensive exposures but fails to emphasize the importance of making each and every one of those experiences a good one. It is better to have fewer safe and positive experiences than many with some bad experiences mixed in. Socialization is more than a check list. It must include a) careful planning to ensure the experience is a good one, b) observation of the puppy’s body language and c) an exit plan if things are not going well.
Your puppy has the right to say ‘no’. If he backs away from someone or something, he is saying no. Let him approach on his own terms and reward him away from the person, dog or thing by placing the treat behind him and encouraging him to move back to get it. Do NOT lure him when he is hesitant – this will not alleviate his anxiety. Giving him the free choice to approach on his own terms and reinforcing when he does is a far more effective way to help him become more confident.
Be an advocate for your puppy – don’t let anyone push your puppy, force him to do anything or keep approaching if he is showing hesitancy. Sometimes you will need to be firm and insistent.
This is wonderful period in your puppy’s life when their learning is exponential. A bit of planning and effort will pay huge dividends.